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This is the first stop on the Côte de Beaune. For once the two part name does not refer to a vineyard. The village Ladoix-Serrigny is really two villages. The Ladoix part is up by the RN74, while Serrigny is the eastern part, closer to the railroad.
Up by the route nationale is where you will find the commerce – a grocery store, a baker's, a tabac, a few restaurants (the hotels/restaurants Les Terrasses de Corton, La Gremelle and a few others) and a florist's. Jean-François Bouillot – the baker – makes chocolate filled pink marzipan pigs that are close to heaven on earth, at least according to our young daughter.
Just a block off the main road is Domaine Edmond Cornu et Fils. This14 ha domaine makes nicely sturdy red wines from the appellations around Ladoix – Aloxe-Corton, Corton, Ladoix, Chorey-lès-Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune and Côte de Nuits-Villages. Unfortunately the Bourgogne rosé and the aligoté are no more. Especially their aligoté was a lovely wine. Today Edmond Cornu has handed over the responsibility to his son Pierre, taking the back seat himself.
We have rented one of their gîtes on two occasions. Both stays were very pleasant. We were very well looked after by Cornu senior and his wife Yvette. I have rarely met a man of his age being so enthusiastic about things.
If I only have half of it when I'm past 70 I'll be lucky. The house is in excellent condition, very well equipped and within comfortable walking distance to the local bakery.
The name Ladoix comes the old French word for spring (of water) – la douix. Both Ladoix itself and the hamlet of Buisson a bit north up the RN74 were first mentioned in 1305, being old properties of the Hospices de Beaune.
The church dates back to the 13th century and when you leave the village towards Beaune there is the chapel Notre-Dame du Chemin on the left side of the RN74. The chapel dates back to the 11th century and was partially restored by the duke of Burgundy Philip the Good in the 15th century.
Ladoix-Serrigny lies right at the foot of the Corton hill. Not only does it have its own appellation – Ladoix, both premier cru and village level – some of the Corton and Aloxe-Corton land is actually in Ladoix-Serrigny. In addition to this the growers can bottle their wine as Côte-de-Beaune-Villages.
As with other lesser-known villages along the Côte d'Or Ladoix-Serrigny has become a good hunting ground for good value for money burgundies. About one fifth is white, the rest is red. To a large extent the Ladoix vineyards are the continuation to the north of the Corton hill, leading all the way up to the Corgoloin border.
Related reading on Bergman's Bourgogne:
• Interview with Pierre Cornu at Domaine Edmond Cornu & Fils in Ladoix-Serrigny
• Interview with Michel Mallard at Domaine Michel Mallard in Ladoix-Serrigny
• Next village – Aloxe-Corton
• Previous village – Corgoloin
