Coulanges-la-Vineuse

There was a time in the history of Coulanges-la-Vineuse when there was no winemaking activity in the village at all. During the first part of the 20^th century, in the wake of the phylloxera, the winegrowers had been forced to find other ways to make a living. This village 14 kilometres south of Auxerre with some 900 inhabitants still has relatively few winegrowers. There are not even ten in the village and only 15 if you include the nearby villages and hamlets. When looking at the surrounding hills it is obvious that the vines are not the only crop here.

This part of Burgundy is entitled to the regional appellation Bourgogne Coulanges-la-Vineuse. It is an appellation that covers red, white and rosé wine and that the village shares with its neighbours – the communes of Escolives-Sainte-Camille, Jussy, Migé, Mouffy, Charentenay and Val-de-Mercy. The white wines, made from chardonnay, only accounts for 13 percent of the annual production. The reds and the rosés, both made from pinot noir, account for 82 and 5 percent respectively. The reds are usually lighter in style, intended for earlier drinking. The wines, in all three coulours, are modestly priced – rarely over eight or nine euros.

Bourgogne Coulanges-la-Vineuse is a fairly recent addition to the appellations in Burgundy. It was in 1993 that these seven communes were granted the right to add Coulanges-la-Vineuse below Bourgogne on their labels.

The village of Coulanges-la-Vineuse sits on top of a hill. In the past this was a fortified village. During the Middle Ages a wall, with eleven towers, was built to protect the village from attacks. Where the moat once was is today a promenade planted with limetrees. The Romans etsablished themselves in Auxerre around 43 BC. They are also believed to have established colonies in the region, hence the name Coulanges-la-Vineuse. During the centuries the name has evolved from Coloniae or Conlongiae Vinosae, via Colonies, Coloinges and Colanges les Vineuse, to the present name.

In Roman times the wine was kept in large cellars in Vincelles, a small village right by the river Yonne four kilometres east of Coulanges-la-Vineuse. The name Vincelles comes from Vinicellae (wine cellar). These cellars later became of no use as the village grew and the winegrowers built their own cellers in connection with their houses. Coulanges was first mentioned in writing in 1173. During the 13^th and 14^th centuries, thanks to the wine, the village flourished and was one of the first to be granted a charter that meant that they had the right to govern themselves. From 1365 they could elect judges, collect taxes, etc.

Coulanges-la-Vineuse suffered badly during the French Wars of Religion. In 1597 the population had been reduced by half, 150 houses stood empty and another 250 had been demolished. More peaceful times arrived the following century. The village was rebuilt and in 1680 when the court physician to Louis XIV, Guy-Crescent Fagon, convinced the king to change his drinking preferences from Champagne to Burgundy there was a boost in sales of wines from this area.

Today Cloulanges-la-Vineuse is still recovering from the phylloxera and a market that underwent big changes. This is a situation it shares with most of the villages around Auxerre, except for Chablis. While practically all AOC-classed land on the Côte d’Or is planted with vines there are still considerable areas in this part of Burgundy that are without vines.

Despite being a fairly large village there is not much commerce in Coulanges-la-Vineuse. You’ll find a few shops here including a bakery. The only restaurant, Les Vendanges on Rue André Vildieu, is closed for refurbishing. Domaine Maltoff – Odile and Jean Pierre – on Rue d'Aguesseau offers both chambres d'hôtes and a plat du soir together with the wines of the domaine. The portfolio holds Bourgogne Coulanges-la-Vineuse in all three colours, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, Crémant de Bourgogne and Ratafia. The Bourgogne Coulanges-la-Vineuse “Cuvée Aime de Maltoff” is a very nice easy drinking red.

Related reading on Bergman's Bourgogne:
• Next village – Irancy
• Previous village – Saint-Vérand

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